From the Plains

Swanky Swizzy

2010-09-16T09:28:00.001-05:00

Swanky Swizzy from Savage Climbing on Vimeo.

Moving to Savage Climbing

2010-05-11T08:15:00.002-05:00

From here on out (at least until the end of the trip) I'm going to be posting exclusively on Alex's site:

http://www.savageclimbing.com

You should check it out.

Good days

2010-04-21T04:32:00.010-05:00

Howdy do.

Alex and I went to Milano (Italy) for a rest day.... it was amazing. Europe never ceases to impress.

This guy made amazing art out of vegetables.

I really liked this store's sign. I'm pretty sure they sell glasses.

The Galleria near the Duomo. (You'll see the Duomo in a sec.. just hold your horses)

The entrance to said Galleria

I want to have this bike, and ride it in Italy.

A statue of Da Vinci.

Vertical this time.

Bentley, and a converse advertisement.

A castle.

THE DUOMO

Look at the detail... it took over 400 years to build.

Brilliant.

Back to Switzerland... It's been pretty hot here lately. Trying to finish up some projects before we move on to magic wood. I've been spending my days reading, taking pics, and laying in the sun. We start climbing around sundown, and continue into the night...

Nighttime at the Salamandre boulder. (photo by Alex)

Found this guy on top of this cairn by the river.

Cairns by the river.

This is on the way to Brione, it's home of the 007 goldeneye bungee jump (the second highest bungee jump in the world)....

Check it out. (Thinking about doing it.)

Behind the Dam

A little bridge on the way to Brione...

look hard and you might see Alex.

Paradise...

2010-04-09T06:47:00.015-05:00

Switzerland is a dream world.

Andrea climbing at Brione

The climbing here is world class, the rock is immaculate, and the landscape is breath taking. For me, life does not get much better.

Lake Lugano (you must click to see a larger version!)

We've been climbing a lot lately. Going to new areas and seeing some of the best boulders in the world. We even found (and did) the best boulder in the world... as far as I can tell. We got really good video of Alex doing it so expect a video in the future. He's been absolutely crushing the boulders here in Switzerland. I think he's found a really cool project for himself, Freak Brothers (8a+) at Chironico. There are two lines that I've seen this trip that make me wish I could climb better, one being Partage at Font, and the other being Freak Brothers.

Alex working Freak Brothers

The climbing here in Ticino is really cool. It's so varied, every area has slightly different stone. The scenery never ceases to amaze, and for the most part neither does the climbing. I cannot imagine a better bouldering area than Ticino.

Doug on Black Mirror (6b+) at Brione

Andrea on Black Mirror (6b+) at Brione

Doug warming up at Brione

A pleasant view at Chironico (click to make larger)

Other than all the amazing climbing we have been doing, we've also been relaxing... a lot. Every night we play cards, listen to music, and eat well. We bought some easter eggs for our land lady and she brought us a bottle of Port. As she handed it over she stated with her limited English, "Port, I am from Portugal."

Homemade pancakes with fruit and yogurt topping! Thanks Doug!

Quiche, pear salad, and garlic toast... thanks A Hah!

Port, from Portugal.

We made a day trip to one of the three castles in Bellinzona, which consisted of a whopping 30 minute walk from our house... pretty cool. We topped that off with pizza and gelato.

The view from the watchtower of the castle.

So nice.

The view from the side of the castle

The watchtower.

And last but not least, we spent a day about 25 km south of Bellinzona in a town called Lugano, hanging out by the lake, people watching, and of course eating gelato.

The lake at Lugano

In the park.

These guys are awesome

Cool architecture in Lugano

Old school versus new school in the park

SNACK! BAR! GOLFO! TEA! ROOM!

Statue in the park.

Beer at the park

You must click to get the full essence of the photo.

No dog poop.

Closing thoughts.... Switzerland is amazing, and you should be here. So why aren't you?

Also, Alex has posted an awesome Font video on his site... so check it out.

Switzerland. Climbing Day 1.

2010-03-31T15:49:00.006-05:00

After camping a few days in the rain, we decided we had had enough. We down shifted and headed to Switzerland from France. After paying 65 Euros it tolls ($87!!!!!), we arrived to our destination. Ticino, Switzerland. The town we settled in is called Bellinzona, and it is amazing. After a short stay in an amazing campground right below a 300' tall waterfall we decided to get out of the rain. We went to the tourism office in Bellinzona and the woman there very graciously called 20 or so different people to inquire about flats/apartments/houses for rent. Finally, she found one.

For the same price as camping (18 Swiss francs a night), we get to stay here:

Front door view

Kitchen

Top of the morning to yah Andrea

The living room with heated floors

The GIANT bed...

A shower.... finally!

Swanky bathroom.

Another view...

Today was an amazing day....

The weather was perfetto.

The scenery was bellissima.

I can't wait for tomorrow.

Chironico, Switzerland

Out of the gite, back on the street.

2010-03-27T06:30:00.000-05:00

Check it:

www.savageclimbing.com

A few words

2010-03-21T16:47:00.002-05:00

After a month and a half one would think an area would get old. One would think that the mind would start to ponder the idea of moving to a new region to try new things and meet new people. This is not so. People say that time flies when you’re having fun. Never has this been more accurate than the last month I’ve spent here. In the blink of an eye I’m forced to begin thinking about moving to new places.

Our time here has been filled with amazing people, good times, and plenty of rock scaling. We’re living in a six person gite with 11 people. After climbing we stop at the store, buy food for the night, and hurry home to eat. The corks are pulled, the cans are cracked, and bottles are opened. We sit around the table and tell stories of the day, the past, and of our friends and family. I relate to others not just through climbing, but also through situations that other climbers tend to get themselves in. Everyone has their epic stories, their trump card, and it never gets old to hear them.

If you ever travel to the Bleau to climb be forewarned that weather is the issue. It is fairly hit or miss. The first part of the trip was loaded with snow, rain, and clouds. Then the heinous cold came. A week of perfect weather then commenced, enough time to go to a new area everyday and get projects all over the forest. Then came the heat. Not hot enough to not climb, but enough to make you long for the cold. It’s good though… If you like excuses, Font never ceases to supply them.

Alex and I have begun to think about what is next. We seem to have settled on going to Spain, and enjoying the company of our new found friends Doug and Andrea. We’ll find new language there, a new culture, and many new experiences.

This is my trip. A once and a lifetime excursion where I can lay it all out on the line, and see what happens. I can’t wait for the next four and a half months. I love waking up excited, spending all day excited, and going to bed ecstatic for the next day.

Pictures to come.

Welcome to March

2010-03-02T03:24:00.000-06:00

Five 7's from Font from Savage Climbing on Vimeo.

More Photos

2010-02-25T09:23:00.004-06:00

The rain is taking over. Pastries, beer, and photos are the result.

We saw an amazing old bombed church in Larchant, and I've had plenty of time to play with my new camera.

Hope you enjoy.

2 of Everything

New post on Alex's Blog

2010-02-23T11:13:00.000-06:00

Check it out!

www.savageclimbing.com

Things to note.

2010-02-20T11:56:00.004-06:00

Once again I sit in good ole Mac Donalds. It seems to have become our American embassy. I mean honestly, being American, I reckon we pretty much own this place.

Things I've noticed about France...

1. No fat people... it's amazing to walk around in a country full of people that actually respect their bodies.

2. No big cars... The law of demand is real. When gas is $7 a gallon and streets are tight, there is a need for small, fuel efficient cars. Think your Prius has good gas mileage? Think again my friend... the Peugeot 207 SW gets 60 MPG on diesel, and it actually has unbelievable "get up and go". I guess there is the problem of windows that aren't sufficiently large enough to support those 3' x 3' Mossy Oak stickers....

3. Beer at McDonalds... enough said.

4. The wine is cheap and amazing, and so is the bread.

5. French people are not snooty, stuck up, or pompous. At least not any more than Americans. Are there a few d-bags around? Sure... But where aren't there?

6. Fontainebleau is enormous. 50+ areas, and a lot of them are comparable to HP40 in size and quality.

7. It's really cool how international Fontainebleau is. While sitting in one of the main areas at Font (Bas Cuvier) it's not unusual to hear 4 or 5 different languages around you... and none of them English.

We've been staying in a cozy 6 person gite (house), that is completely full with people excited to go rock climbing. We wake up, discuss where to go climbing, and go. A good life to say the least. We've been blessed with a few (NOTE: FEW) good climbing days, but things are looking up. The snow has finally melted, and things might start drying up.

I love Europe. I like the pace, the scenery, the people walking down the streets in their little towns holding giant baguettes. I like wearing bright colors here, and feeling peoples eyes as they look at my strongly colored attire. I like driving a small car, on small streets, through towns older than America.

I like this place.

Seems like Spain is next in line.

Until next time,

Les

The first from Font

2010-02-17T10:10:00.000-06:00

Welcome to Font from Savage Climbing on Vimeo.

White Powder

2010-02-11T09:44:00.007-06:00

I should have brought the cross country skis.

We arrived in Paris at 8:30 in the morning, picked up our car from Peugeot, and drove straight into town to some climbing shops we had already researched. After a successful mission of finding the 7 + 8 guidebook for Font we shifted into high gear and raced to Fontainebleau. Since it was pretty late and we had been up for 24 hours, we decided to go grab a sandwich and a couple of beers instead of trying to climb. Looking out the window of the Tabac (tobacco shop/ bar/ sandwich shop/ old creepy men hangout) we noticed it was dumping. Snow. And lots of it.

The car getting dumped on.

This isn't good....

We hopped in the car, and the 25 minute drive to the campsite turned into a hour and a half slip and slide fest. Hooray.

The road in front of us... oh boy.

And behind. Notice the Police car. He stopped and kindly said, "good luck!"

5:30 AM and I couldn't sleep. Why not play with my camera?

Now we wait, in McDonalds (free wifi in Europe), for the snow to melt so that we can get on the sandstone. I am itching to climb, it's been 27 days since I've gotten my feet off the ground. We went out to Bas Cuvier about an hour ago, and I ran into some Brits I met in Hueco. Small world eh? They were brushing snow off the tops of some of the boulders, so maybe we will be able to climb tomorrow. Cross your fingers for us.

Go this way.

Oh wait, we cant. It's frozen.

Why are you smiling Alex???? This isn't cool...

That's more like it... Negativity!!

Sick Alex!

Tree with snow on it. I guess I didn't need to tell you that though.

Until next post,

Au Revoir.

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh holler at your dog!

2010-02-02T22:37:00.002-06:00

Rufus...

So if you haven't already guessed it, I am psyched. I'm leaving a week from today for what will be the only extended road trip I will probably ever have... Holy guacamole.

I've been quite the lazy bass-tard as of late, doing little to ZERO climbing since Hueco Tanks. Oh wait, I did go out with my best buddy Sean D. to a new hot spot bouldering mecca in Bartlesville Okla-friggen-homa. It was quite the scene. After 45 minutes of treacherous hiking through mud and crossing a near frozen river, we came came to the ultra-mega classic of the ENTIRE area. A v0/1/2/3 that proved to live up to the hype. On my first go the most obvious foothold shattered. Sick. I managed to capture the forth ascent in only a few more goes. Thats right boss. Buy your plane tickets friends, I can't say enough about the area.

I also went skiing in Salt Lake City, Utah. Oh my god I love skiing. Second to climbing for sure. I had never been, but it was undeniably amazing. I went with my parents, and they graciously paid for everything. I could never afford all that jazz, I couldn't believe how expensive everything was.

Now I'm back. I just got a new camera (for documentation purposes), and I've almost read the entire manual for your picture viewing pleasure. Look foward to many marginal pictures in the future.

Idea: I threw this at Alex last night. We are going to be making TONS of videos for our own egotistical purposes over the next 6 months. Would you like to see more culture and other crap thrown in other than the regular boulder problem after boulder problem after boulder problem. I honestly get tired of the 15-boulder-problems-in-a-row-format (which I am also guilty of).

Its gunna be a good six months.

I'm going to be helping Alex on his sight: http://www.savageclimbing.com/

So check it, and often.

Hueco Tanks

2010-01-16T20:37:00.014-06:00

Where to begin... I guess I'll start by letting you know that you don't need a visa to go to Europe, at least that's what the French consulate told my friend Alex. Unfortunately I had already driven to Houston (eight hours out of the way), and found myself there without any purpose. I decided to cancel my hotel, not go to the Consulate appointment, and take a right turn on I-10. After a 1000 miles by myself I stopped at Motel 6 to recharge. The next day was new year's eve. I drove into El Paso and met up with my friends Dave and Craig. (NOTE: all the photos from this post are Craig's. Check out his SITE) The first night at Hueco was somewhat unreal. Maybe it was the Day Quill, or maybe it was the 20 foot tall fire and exhaustion.

Light my fire. With bottle rockets.

More? Yes of course.

BOOM!

Why so serious Dave?

The Man Himself.

Hueco is truly an amazing place. I'd always said I wanted to go there when I had at least 2 weeks. I highly recommend this. With the rules and everything I think a two week minimum is in order. I didn't do too much projecting on harder problems, but I did run around and do as many classic moderate problems as I could. There are too many. Way too many. I wish I had spent more time on East Mountain and the East spur, but there is always next time. I feel good, and I am psyched about the EURO adventure.

Check the pics.

Check Craig's SITE.

Amber with a can as big as she is.

Shelton showing his delicate side.

Bodysnatcher (v4). Amazing movement on this one.

Between the sheets (v4). Amazing holds on this one.

Babyface (v7). An unreal problem.

Working Dark Age (aka See Spot Run low- V11).

I vote that this is the best V2 in the world. Ghetto Simulator.

Scary. Gums (v2)

Sex After Death (v8). This problem was badass.

Sean on Loaded with Power (v10). A great problem.

Oh yeah, almost there.

The dudes, minus Craig.

Isreal... want to get some CiCi's?

Getting close on Free Willy (v10/11).

Sean getting closer.

I'm getting a camera before I go to Europe, so yeah.... I'll be able to take my own photos. My favorite problems I did at Hueco:

Oriface Affair (v1)

Nobody Gets out of here Alive (v2)

Ghetto Simulator (v2)

Gums (v2)

Sign of the Cross (v3)

El Burro (v3)

Between the Sheets (v4)

Bodysnatcher (v4)

Between the Puffs (v5)

Right Donkey Show (v5)

Lobster Claw (v5)

Norwegian Wall Traverse (v5)

Dean's Trip (v5)

See Spot Run (v6)

Baby Martini (v6)

Mexican Chicken (v6)

King Cobra (v6)

Speed Bump (v7)

Babyface (v7)

Cameltoe (v7)

Daily Dick Dose (v7)

Between the Cheeks (v7)

Stegosaurus (v8)

Sex After Death (v8)

Pumped Full of Semen (v9)

Loaded with Power (v10)

So Confused

2009-12-03T09:00:00.004-06:00

WARNING: The following post contains a lot of bitching...

"One thing you've learned is that you cant just pack your bags and go."

So true Mom, so true. Up until recently planning for my Mega-trip has been relatively easy peasy lemon squeezy, but one little thing seems to be looming over me as of late... One four letter word that separates me from four months in Europe.

VISA

Not a credit card, but a pass to the "Schengen Union". This pass is not needed unless you are going to be in the Union for longer than 90 days, but I will be there for 120. If you cannot prove a place where you will be staying (aka if you are "backpacking") then you must obtain a visa from the country that you are entering/exiting. Enter the French Government. Let me just list the issues I've had while just researching HOW to get a French Visa.

1. To apply for a Visa you must apply in person at the Consulate. I live in Alabama. The nearest French Consulate is in Atlanta, which is conveniently two hours away. However, I hold a drivers license from the state of Oklahoma.... and guess what you need to be able to apply for a Visa at the Atlanta Consulate. A drivers license from Alabama/ Georgia / Tennessee. "Where can you apply Les?" Good question, and the answer is: Houston. Texas that is. OH SWEET, its only 10 hours away.

2. "Well just apply on your way to Oklahoma," good thought my friend, but appointments for the visa office are only available every Wednesday from 8 AM to 9 AM. Say WHAAAAAAAAA?

3. Processing time is at a minimum of 2-3 weeks. Sometimes processing takes 2 months. The earliest I'll be able to apply is late December. And unless I want to drive back to Houston I must leave my Passport with the Consulate and wait for them to MAIL it back to me. Sound sketchy? It is.

Damn.

If you can help me, or have any information regarding Visas....

Email me at LesWarnock@gmail.com.

Until then I'll be pulling my hair out.

Sincerely yours.

Le Tot <= that's french

I'm GOING!

2009-11-17T10:16:00.008-06:00

Well folks, I'm in. I bought my ticket last night for the trip of a lifetime. It's going to be a crazy good time.

I've been thinking about not going Hueco Tanks January, and staying around the south instead; trying to do a bunch of problems I've never done, and saving a ton of money in gas (aka not driving 3000 miles!) . I've hardly even touched little rock city, and I still have projects at HP40 and Rocktown. What do you think I should do? I've never been to Hueco, so I definitely feel that I should go, but I don't have reservations or anything yet. If you've been to the south, and Hueco... give me some advice, I can't make up my mind!!

-vs-

In the mean time I have to start getting my crap organized.... too much to do, and so little time!

84 days until I leave!!!

Also worthy of note: Going to the Red for 4 days with this guy:

SICK!

Oh yeah! I one hung Hooligans on my flash attempt at the concave last Saturday! Then I one hung it again, and then again... haha! Oh well. Next time.

Hello and Goodbye

2009-11-13T15:06:00.004-06:00

1. Goin to climb this weekend, so psyched. Either rocktown, the canyon, or both...
I'll let you know how it goes....

I deactivated my 8a.nu account today.

And that is that.

Now back to climbing....

Check these videos:

Opium

Sur-Prises assis 7c+ from Mero Werfie on Vimeo.

Where is the cold?

2009-11-11T13:52:00.003-06:00

Where is the cold? Seriously. Yesterday we're hit with a friggen tropical storm and this weekend it's going to be 70 degrees. I'm ready for the 30's. I'm ready for it to get sticky outside. Grrr. Oh well....

Check out this little video I made for the boys over at P&C.

Haircut from Les on Vimeo.

First Ave Rocks

2009-11-09T14:26:00.001-06:00

First Ave Rocks from Les on Vimeo.

Ahh the cold

2009-11-06T09:05:00.003-06:00

Well howdy do sports fans.

First off, War Eagle.

Second, I'm getting psyched. Is it weird that my excitement level is directly linked to how cold it is outside? Think about it. When I wake up, walk outside, and take a breath of nice cool air (im talking 40's people!), I immediately want to strap on my shoes, run out back, and start training. How come I can't keep this enthusiasm for the rest of the year? Climbers are no doubt a rare breed... Alluding to my upcoming trip, my Dad asked, "Why are you purposely maximizing the amount of cold you have to endure in both areas?" HAH! Why would I not?? It only makes sense right? Suffer the cold to send hard. Screw being comfortable. However, as I begin to realize that I am actually going on such an epic journey, I'm also thinking about the repercussions. How will camping in the cold for 7 months effect me? Am I cut out for this? Do I even have enough MONEY????

Only time will tell.

Regardless, I have have a few project in mind this fall that I would love to send before I went.

1. Cadillac Right (hot 'n tot)

2. Golden Harvest

3. God Module

Speaking of Golden Harvest... Has anyone been to Rocktown lately? What is the deal with that place?

The best comp ever.

2009-10-08T15:09:00.007-05:00

24 Hours.

me: "How many breaks are we going to take?"
Maury: "I don't think we should take any..."
me: "Oh."

I didn't think he was serious. No one can really climb for 24 hours straight.

Right?

Well, it turns out you can.

57 routes later and I am a new man. Eyes tired, hands torn, feet swollen, and body wrecked, Maury and I finished our last route of the 24 hours 23:45 in and headed down to the barn. There I saw Tommy and Jeremy turning in there scorecards as well. All smiles....

I knew that there was no chance that we had won, but this confirmed it. I could barely move, and they had changed into costumes.

Nice.

These two young guns climbed 213 routes.

Nice.

The entire experience was a blast. I'll have to say if you like climbing, and want a challenge, this is it.

:::Some Highlights:::

_Hair_

_Party_

_Costume_

I know this guy.

All photos are courtesy of Lucas Marshall. => Check it.

Going Big

2009-10-07T13:05:00.006-05:00

I've been known to say "Go Big or Go Home." Well, for the first time in my life I am going big. REAL big.

I've recently been planning a trip of a lifetime, and I couldn't be more excited.

Here's how it will hopefully lay out...

Starting in January of 2010, I'll hop in my car and shoot down to the world class bouldering area of Hueco Tanks.

I will stay for 3 weeks, and then head back to Hot Lanta (ATL, GA) to meet up with my good friend ALEX SAVAGE (the man, the myth, the legend).

And we will then fly out of ATL to Paris, France. We will then buy a car.

And drive south to Fountainbleau....

And possibly all these areas as well...

Brione, Switzerland

Mallorca, Spain

Magic Wood, Swtizerland

Ceuse, France

Verdon Gorge, France

Hopping from one area to the other for four months. Meeting people, and exploring new land.

Could it get any better?

Yes.

At the end of the four months in Europe, Alex and I will then fly South....... Way south.

Where?

You guessed it.

South Africa => The Rocklands

Coming back at the beginning of August.

Then starting Graduate School.

Psyched.

2009-09-01T08:48:00.003-05:00

Shadinkadink. NEWWWWS TO REPORT!

First off, Colorado was amazing. I wish I could describe to you all of the fun times we had. I spent a hell of a lot of time sport climbing (mostly at independence pass... which you must check out), and zero time bouldering. Ohhh well. Maybe next go around. I also climbed the Diamond the last day of my trip with my buddy Cassidy. What an experience that was. Thanks Cassidy for hauling me up that thing!

Second off, more to come.

Um yes.

2009-07-14T19:14:00.002-05:00

Sooooo day 1 was amazing! I went solo to Mount Evans and, well, I SENT MY PROJECT! Oh man what a beautiful feeling. Sunny, windy, and 60 degrees, I sat underneath the Dali recalling past memories of failure. I decide to give it a go... to the dyno, but no send. I sat there looking at the problem and then went up on top of the boulder to look at the scenery. It was such a gorgeous day at Evans today, and blah blah blah, I got inspired, and blah blah blah. I went down to the climb, and strapped on my shoes. Next thing I knew I was holding the slopey jug, smiling from ear to ear. I know the Dali isn't groundbreaking, but I had such a mental block on the thing that it felt really good to push through on the first day of my trip.

Next I went to beirstadt and did all the moves except for the last one. Really psyched on this one, I think it will go pretty quick. I feel really good for not bouldering since March. So excited!

I'm going climbing tomorrow so I'll keep you posted.

Stay psyched!

WELL HOWDY DO!

2009-07-13T17:23:00.002-05:00

Hey there. Long time no talky talky. To make a long story short I'm in Colorado, after half a summer of working in Auburn, and a great week spent in Oklahoma. So I'm here, in colorful Colorado and I have a month of nothing but climbing. Yes!

My first day here has been a bust, so far. I almost went bouldering by myself to Mt. Evans, but instead I waited around for a climbing partner and got rained out. Boooo, no climbing on day 1. Only 29 days left. Sigh.

I've got a new rope coming my way tomorrow (hopefully). It's a Mammut Infinity 9.5. I'll let you all know how it handles, wears, and treats me over the next couple of months.

I'll definetely be posting more now that I actually have something to post about.

Talk to you soon.

Im out.

Seriously.

Member's Only BBQ

2009-05-28T10:55:00.003-05:00

So First Avenue Rocks is friggen awesome. I went up there last Sunday to eat, set problems, and hang out with friends. It was a goooooood ole time. Yessir. I feel guilty I haven't made it up to BHam to help out with the construction process, but they have done a great job putting the gym together. Once the AC and the padded floors go in they will be about ready to open. Good stuff. Makes me wish I lived in Birmingham. Oh well.

Here's a little video of the day.

FAR Members Only BBQ from Les on Vimeo.

A break in concentration...

2009-05-21T16:21:00.003-05:00

Well it has been a few weeks since I posted, but let me get you up to date (as if you care). I've been really busy with work. Two jobs this summer is leaving me with very little free time, but I've managed to do a couple things with the little amount that I have. The first thing I've done is built a bicycle, which is now going to be my mode of transportation this summer.

My "new" Bike!

Second, I've been helping my friend Donny make a giant garden. So hopefully in a month or so I will have plenty of "free" veggies to munch on! Hooray veggies!

Third, I went to the beach with my beautiful girlfriend Jenny and her awesome family.

So there you go, my personal life in a nutshell... yadda yadda yadda.

Now it is time to start climbing again, and today marks the beginning of the summer training. I'm going to start a regimen that consists of hangboard, campusboard, and core workouts that will hopefully whip my sorry butt into decent shape. More on this later.

On another note, I'd like to pay tribute to my older brother and sister's mother, Brinda Warnock. She died peacefully in her sleep last week in Savannah, Georgia. Rest in peace Brinda, you will be missed.

My sister Rebecca and her mother Brinda

2009-05-06T17:04:00.001-05:00

Summer time....

2009-05-06T11:14:00.009-05:00

I am ready for summer. My finals will be done tomorrow at 10:30 in the AM, and then no school for nearly 3 months.... yessir!

I'm going to be staying in the Southeast for the first time this summer.... The heat is going to SUCK, but I have a lot of projects to occupy my time... Not just climbing projects, (although I do have a LOT of those) but other projects as well.

-Project 1-
Move into a new house and add on to the climbing wall.

Some of you may know about the house I speak of, but if not let me inform you. In the back yard of my soon to be house lies THE SHED.... World Headquarters. My little slice of training heaven. Since there is no climbing anywhere remotely close to Auburn, we've built a nice little climbing wall in the shed. We've also decided on building more this summer... here are a few ideas:

Idea 1

Idea 2

Idea 3

I think we are going to build idea 1... or at least we are going to TRY and build idea 1. It will be the sickness.

-Project 2-
Build a Fixed Gear Bike

I've recently gotten really excited about building a fixed gear bicycle. I'm buying an old road bike frame off a guy here in Auburn, and converting it into a fixed gear. I don't know a lot about bikes, so this is going to be an experience...

I'll be in touch over the summer.... see ya around,

Les

God Module

2009-04-26T13:11:00.004-05:00

A couple years back, Alex had a gooood day. Luckily I was there.

School and Finals

2009-04-24T08:44:00.001-05:00

School is wrapping up and finals are coming... SO I'll be pretty strapped for time for the next couple weeks.

Here's a awesome video I found on you tube.

Enjoy.

Lil to The River

2009-04-20T21:50:00.005-05:00

(Photo- Taylor Forsythe)

I'm becoming obsessed with Lil River Canyon. I like it too much.

This weekend was awesome, it featured (in order of appearance):
-Andrew
-Haley
-Brook(s)
-Natalie
-Taylor
-Scotty F
-Kenneth
-Scotty G

And a few other folks... Needless to say we had a crew!

Highlight of the weekend? Andrew, Brooks, and I running the 1,2,3 sendtrain on Robin's Route (lizard wall) then splitting. Also, Haley sending her first 5.12!!! Classic-ness.

Grape Lady

2009-04-16T21:12:00.001-05:00

I can't keep this from you.... Too funny!

Pandora

2009-04-14T11:07:00.003-05:00

I love Pandora and so should you.

If you don't know what it is, then Google it.

Check out my stations to the right.

=>=>=>=>=>=>=>=>=>=>=>=> That Way.

Not this way <=<=<=<=<=<=<=<=<=<=<=

Yeah, music is good for you.

First Ave Rocks

2009-04-11T00:20:00.003-05:00

The heat is coming in the Southeast and it's going to leave you with pit stains bigger than this guys:

Fortunately for us, an entrepreneur and a southern legend are giving climbers an outlet for bouldering in the scorching summer.

The name of the gym is First Avenue Rocks and it's in Birmingham, Alabama.

No way... get real! Seriously?

Yes. It's true. A gym in Birmingham.

I thought it would be a good idea to get an inside scoop by interviewing the two guys that know more than anyone. Joe Ortega and Adam Henry.

Here is the result:

Les: What was your inspiration for opening a gym in Birmingham?

Joe: Well, that would be no gym. I've been planning this for quite a while now. After I built a (sick ass) training center at Tim Diegmanns place I sort of let the idea slip to the back burner. We had everything you could want from a gym up there, steep walls, HIT strips, campus board, weights, you name it. It was great, not to mention he lived up stairs from me. Then Tim decided to move to Chatt and it all came down. That was definitely my re-inspiration.

Adam: The lack of any organized scene in the area. There are lots of climbers but nowhere with any centrality and energy. Too many disconnected groups leading to bad form (not southern). Woodies had always been in and around this place, but these have faded as an energy point.

Les: Why do you think it has not been done before now?

Joe: Maybe people are to busy talking about what a good idea it is to actually do something? Really though I have no idea.

Adam: Birmingham is considered a dead city that stopped growing after the civil rights era. Basically there were no big entities interested in investing. Actually, we had one over a decade ago, but it was poorly run thus it was driven into the ground.

Les: Other than four separate bouldering structures featuring plenty of varied terrain including top-out boulders; an extensive training section complete with a MOON board, HIT strips, system tiles, hang boards and campus rungs; a pro shop, top-rope wall, and lounge area with free WiFi...... What makes your gym unique?

Joe: Well when you put it like that, nothing.

Adam: Yeah, nothing really other than the fact it is in B-ham. There are tons of these types of facilities out west and up the east coast. However, we will be a bit unique to the Southeast by focusing on the bouldering gym aspect.

Les: Why go to F.A.R. instead of going to the UAB climbing facility?

Joe: Dude, I could talk about this for hours. As far as the climbing you will experience once you're at First Ave, there will be no comparison. The key is to have plenty of varied terrain (and we do). You want walls that can hold all grades of problems without making all of the moves awkward in order to increase difficulty and you want plenty of room for all of this to happen in. I think we have that well dialed in.

That's one of my biggest gripes about Entre Prises’s imprint system, including UAB's. All those damn features get in the way and severely limit how hard your problems can be, how big your holds can be and people who climb there a lot have every inch memorized (hell during comp time). They are just a real pain in the ass to set on. First Ave Rocks walls will have huge gradually curving sections with nothing to get in the way of our setters creativity. This really opens up the fun aspect of gym climbing. You can just about do anything.

We will have well thought out problems, fresh stuff every week. A sick training section as well as classes focused on power, tech, and endurance (training in a group is the best way to get strong, fo sho).

Adam: Why ask a stupid question???? Why drink a Milwaukee’s best when you can have a PBR?

Les: Word. What kind of texture will be on the boulders? What was the inspiration for the boulders?

Joe: All of the boulders will have textured surfaces that will feel a lot like the local stone. As far as replicating boulders though that's about as far as to goes. Often times things that work outside dont translate very well indoors. I tried to keep this in mind when I was designing the boulders. John Stack and Dustin Buckthal from The Front and Vertical Solutions had some great input as well. John started doing some amazing shit with curved walls at The Front, The Spot, Mamutt Send Fest, Etc. I built some curved walls up at Tim's Place and really liked the way they turned out so Vertical Solutions seemed like a natural company to consult with. I am stoked to say we will be working closely with them when we do our rope gym.

Les: I know most gyms survive on birthday parties and such, how will F.A.R handle this?

Joe: Basically we are aiming to be like Chuckie Cheese. Or Pump It Up. Or Both! This place will be off the chi-zane with pizza grease and frosting!

Adam: There will be set times and days for the events. People will know when these will happen therefore they can determine if they wish to be present or not. We are a bouldering gym first and foremost, but will have the option for any party eve nt. Leslie you could even have your "grow up and get a real job" party there whenever that happens..

Les: Yeah…. That’s never going to happen. With the recent boom of bouldering popularity, the Trifecta (Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee) has become a popular destination. Climbers are now moving to the southeast (I know I did), and people that are from these parts are realizing how lucky they really are. How does this factor into your decision to open a bouldering gym?

Adam: Well we hope the gym just sweetens the pot. Any real climbing town has to have a cultural scene and quality climbing facility (not to mention rock close to the area). B-ham has enough culture for sure, and our gym will give people another reason to stop and stay.

Joe: Totally. I am from Cali where f'n everyone climbs, but here there is this special psych for bouldering that people don't expect. I was stoked to see how many people down here boulder. The climbing here was one of the reasons I came to B-ham.

Les: Do you think the gym will change the climbing scene in Alabama? How so?

Joe: Shit, I hope so. Both Adam and I want to bring something positive to the region. We want a place where climbers can come hang out and learn from each other. Some place to focus all this crazy climbing energy. Of course we are also hoping to lighten the impact on HP40, Moss Rock. Those places are getting hammered from all the traffic. Actually, if anyone is interested April 10th we are sponsoring a trail day at HP where we will be planting a bunch of native trees to help stop the erosion. Hopefully we will have a bunch of volunteers. It'll get you in free for the day and all you gotta do is plant a tree.

Adam: I think it definitely will change the scene in Alabama. It will bring the energy back to one area. The disconnect gap will be filled and climbers will have a place to get good beta and become better representatives for the area. Right now there is lots of bad beta and misinformed climbers out there that need a bit of guidance.

Les: What are you individually responsible for as far as First Avenue Rocks is concerned?

Adam: The pretty face and flow.

Les: I know that a LOT of people are psyched about this gym, including me, is there anything you want them to know?

Joe: We are busting our asses to get this thing open for you as fast as possible. Trust me, no one wants it open sooner than I do. Summer fast approaches...

Adam: I’m psyched too. It will be killa...

Les: Closing thoughts?

Joe: Lots of people are asking if there is anything they can do to help. The best thing anyone can do is join the gym before we open. All of the info is on the web page at www.firstaverocks.com and you can sign up right there. This is a killer deal for the members because we are waiving their start-up fee (which is up to 80$) and if they are one of the first 100 to join they get a limited edition barcode t-shirt. Since we launched the web page last week we have had people sign up every day. We are psyched to see this kind of support from the community. Oh and a quick rant: Pick up your damn trash! That includes f'n cigarette buts and tape you slugs.

Adam: Leslie, why do you keep claiming this plains shit like you are still from Oklahoma? You are southern (albeit a poor version). Get with the program. Change your heading (from the cow fields of auburn or something like that). Also, add something interesting to your blog like maybe recent female interactions or "how i feel today." Who wants to read about climbing??

Les: Notes taken.

Once again, check out all the info on FirstAveRock.com. Also, you can find them on Facebook and Twitter.

Thank you, come again!

Pro Tips

2009-04-09T12:00:00.003-05:00

Ben told me to look this video up, and I can't keep it to myself...

Pro Tips with Joel Brady. Enjoy.

Diaphanous Sea and Xavier's Roof

2009-04-09T11:04:00.004-05:00

Alex Savage is a crusher... that's what he does, he crushes.

Did I mention he climbs hard?

Sickness....

Zahnd

2009-04-05T10:25:00.003-05:00

What's up you guys? My good friend Raja sent me this video...

Zahnd

It features a little satellite area near Rocktown in Georgia. Some really good problems in the video, good energy, and a little bit of Taylor and Raja flare.

Good job boys! Crushing!

2009-04-03T21:59:00.002-05:00

This is kinda cool....

Beast Skills

2009-04-03T13:31:00.004-05:00

I was surfing the web today and found a site called Beast Skills. This guy Jim is pretty burly.... I especially like the peg board training he does, I might have to start doing that (yeah, not really...).

Check it!

^^ I wouldn't want to see the blooper video for this... GOO!

LesTot OUT!

Pimpin Pimpin

2009-03-26T15:36:00.003-05:00

The snail at its finest.... Nice work Taylor.

The Trip

2009-03-26T10:07:00.005-05:00

Soooo how about some details? I won't bore you too much with my blabber, but overall the trip was amazing. I got to meet up with my friends Alex, Zach, Adam, Kenyan, Jeff, and Steve (from England! ...get better soon, seriously). We started the trip off right climbing at the Buttermilks, and nearly destroyed our skin for the entire week in one day. I forgot how sharp the stone is out there.

The next day we went to the Happy's and crushed, I was trying every classic I could get my hands on, and Kevin and Donny were both destroying! The third day we went to the Sads, and damn the sads are good. Everyone seemed to pick a project out of the sads, so we decided to rest the next day, and then come back.

The rest day was awesome, we went up to the green church hot springs and celebrated Saint Patty's day the right way, passing a Gatorade bottle full of whiskey around. Ian and Lisa are both really cool (kick ass on the mountains this season, and send Los Locos... that bitch), and I recommend that anyone going to Bishop look for them and try to make friends (their location will probably be in or around the ice caves).

The 5th day was back to the sads, to do our projects. They were crushed, and then new projects were tried... I did al the moves on beefcake and was really psyched to go back to do that thing. The 6th day we went back to the Buttermilks.... It was pretty hot on day 6, and not much went down. I tried Stained Glass, but came away with nothing but bruised tips to show for it (note: mega sharp and super classic).

We had planned on going back to the Buttermilks our last day, but super high winds kept us on the tablelands, so I went to go try Beefcake again. After falling from the last v2 move twice (bloody hell...), I decided that was all I had and went to try other things. The day ended really chill like, and everyone headed to Ian and Lisa's for a little Brat grilling and beer drinking.

Good times... great oldies. I always end up wishing I had more time to travel after a week long trip, but that's how it goes I guess.

Thanks to everyone who let us crash out, cook, and bombard your places.... you know who you are. Also, much thanks to Alex for letting us borrow pads.

Here's a little video of some of our sends caught on tape.

Bishop Classics from Les on Vimeo.

Uhhhh Amazing!

2009-03-24T17:43:00.005-05:00

Bishop is baaaad ass. Seriously. The week was filled with good times, good people, and lots of sending. I'm short on time right now, but I'll go into more detail later.

Here's a couple of videos of problems at the Sad Boulders.

Enjoy.

Leaving Tonight

2009-03-13T09:38:00.003-05:00

Leaving tonight for Atlanta, flying to LA tomorrow morning, and driving to Bishop tomorrow afternoon.

My head is about to explode.... only two more classes left....

Les TOT out!

Bishop Inspiration 5.0

2009-03-10T09:40:00.007-05:00

Only 3 days left!

YOINK!

Here's a little video that's pretty good...

(other than all the boring parts)

Soon I will have my own Bishop video!

Ticklist for Bishop:

-Strength in Numbers (v5)

-Siagon (v6)

-Seven Spanish Angels (v6)

-Atari (v6)

-High Plains Drifter (v7)

-Morning Dove White (v7)

-Disco Diva (v8)

-Checkerboard (v8)

-Get Carter (v8)

-Cholos (v9)

-Siagon Direct (v9)

-Fall Guy (v9)

-Toxic Avenger (v9)

-Beefcake (v10)

-Acid Wash (v10)

-Evilution to the lip (v10)

-Stained Glass (v10)

Hehe, I have a lot to do...

Little River Canyon

2009-03-09T20:37:00.007-05:00

A little update... I went to Little River Canyon this weekend and got reinspired on routes. I havn't been on a rope since last August and it really has been to long. The canyon is such an amazing place, and I can't wait to try everything I can there this summer. SO badass...

Routes that are worth noting from this weekend... Escapee (12b), Rocktoberfest (11d), and Touch of Gray (11d/12a). Also, the 11's on gray wall are all really outstanding. Can't wait to go back.

4 days until bishop... so psyched!

Last but not least, my boy Brooks Walker and his lady friend Natalie Hawley crushed the competetion this weekend at Sloperfest (HP40); both won their own advanced division... Nice job!

Talk to you soon.

Bishop Inspiration 4.0

2009-03-03T12:35:00.008-06:00

With only 11 days left until my Bishop trip, I am getting really psyched... It's getting hard to sleep at night, and I find myself day dreaming of boulder problems during every class. For this week's inspiration I turned to my previous two trips. Hope you enjoy.

I am Truly Happy at the Happys (me on a v3)

Alex Crushing Siagon (v6)

Overlooking the Buttermilks from the checkerboard area (Unknown v9)

Downclimbs are always exciting at the Buttermilks

Rock Creek is Bad Ass

A Boy Named Sue (v7)

Rock Creek Stone (Seriously Twisted v10)

The Siagon Boulder

A warmup on the Siagon Boulder

Seven Spanish Angels (aka Ruckus v7)

Mandala (v12)

The Pit Panorama

The Project

2009-03-02T17:13:00.006-06:00

If there is one thing that I am it's a shoe junkie. Women always catch shit for loving knee high, toe destroying stiletto's, but I feel for them. I too share a shoe obsession.

Last Thursday I spotted a new shoe on Five Ten's website. The Project. Shown below, these shoe completely revolutionize climbing shoes. With a sole that is only 2 mm thick (compared to the normal 4 mm), these shoes are the ultimate in sensitivity. I had to have a pair! A few clicks of the keys and moments later I was the proud owner of a pair of projects.

Today, I literally chased to UPS guy down while walking to class. He happily handed over my package and I walked into class with a grin, and a box in hand. I couldn't wait, I opened them up in class and put them on. Oh what a glorious feeling, new shoes... But these are not any ordinary shoes. By far, these are the most sensitive shoe I have ever put on my foot. As I groped the bottom of the desk with my toes I could quite literally grab with my feet. These shoes are so thin you can actually roll up the toe box. This is all possible to Stealth's new rubber, Mystique. It is supposedly twice as tough, therefore they can put it on the shoe twice as thin. Pretty awesome.

My main concern with these shoes is the durability, but only time will tell. I will definitely have a second report after my trip to Bishop, where the buttmilk stone might literally eat my thin new shoes alive. Stay tuned.

SNOW!

2009-03-01T14:49:00.004-06:00

Holy crap! It snowed in the dirty south plains.....

Sweet!

One day, I will boulder again.

Chalky Dreams

2009-02-25T18:21:00.003-06:00

Here is a short little video of a sendtrain going down on a dope problem at the Bfields.

Enjoy.

Thanks to Raja for the video.

Crown of Aragorn

2009-02-24T19:19:00.005-06:00

Here is a little ditty from my good friend Alex Savage. It's videos like this that get me so psyched about Bishop. Good work man.

Click here to watch in HD.

I have the f*ing flu. Damn it to hell.

Nothing to see here....

2009-02-19T11:51:00.004-06:00

This Saturday is the Chalky Dreams Competition at Moss Rock Preserve. Yay.

Hope to see you there....

Here's an old video of a cool problem at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.

Enjoy.

Glass Bowl from Les on Vimeo.

Cheers to Alex for his recent send of Crown of Aragorn at Hueco. Strong.

Skin

2009-02-16T20:44:00.007-06:00

I have the dreaded white tip....

No climbing for one weekend and my skin falls to pieces.

Unbelievable.

This may seem like silly obsessive behavior to the normal (wo)man, but the dreaded white tip is close to catastrophic to the climber.

white tip -[hwahyt tip]

- noun

1. Soft supple skin in the middle of a fingertip pad.

2. A fingertip that will explode the next time it touches coarse

sandstone.

3. A phenomena that climbers fear above all things.

This is how I deal with most of my problems.... yes, that is a gallon (and chocolate sauce).

Bishop Inspiration 3.0

2009-02-12T09:40:00.004-06:00

This is a pretty killer video, thanks to Dead Point Magazine for the link. If you can't get inspired by this, good luck in life.

Mirando from Jon McCartie on Vimeo.

I dont know about you, but I like seeing Daniel Woods getting gripped on v5.

One more thing.... Lately I've been a serious moocher. Ripping videos off of other people's sites, and posting them on mine. I realize that the 1 or 2 of you that actually read my bullshit probably couldn't care less, but is what I'm doing lame? Should I stop? Leave me some thoughts.

4 am.... Seriously?

2009-02-10T08:09:00.007-06:00

Damn son. Little rock city really is that cool. I find it hard to believe that I've haven't been there more. However, one thing I would like to bring to attention is the limited number of passes they hand out per day. Obviously I understand the limited number of spots, although I think it could handle at least 20 more people, but regardless, what I have issue with is the way the system is set up.

1. The 5am registration start time is ridiculous. That's 5am eastern time mind you, so 4am our time. Even still, Saturday morning the boulder field filled up in 8 minutes! I mean really, if it is going to fill up that fast anyway, the opening time should be 12am or something. At least that way if you don't get a spot, you have time to change plans.

2. Currently there is no way to give passes back. Example, you wake up at 4am to register, and luckily your Internet is blazing fast. Bam, you got a pass. Now you're blindly walking back to bed in the dark (BECAUSE ITS 4 AM!!), and you stub your toe so hard you break it. You're cussing, spinning round, and furious because you know you aren't going to be able to climb. Well, I'm sorry you broke your toe, but the greater tragedy is the fact you now own a pass that will never be used. It doesn't seem like being able to cancel a pass would be a hard thing to do. Common SCC...

Anywho.... Saturday was amazing. Sends galore, and good times to boot. Jon Hur was there and gave me my first real tour.

Coolest Problems I saw:

-Hulk

-Celestial Mechanics

-King James?? (Thing to the left of Celestial...)

-Interplanetary Escape

-Bedwetters

-White Face

-Instinct (sit)

-Biggie Shorty

-The law

-The shield

-Barndoor 3000

So far I've done only three on this list. And I know there are more problems to add to it. I need to go back! Soon.

Sunday pretty much sucked (although the shenanigans were amazing). We got to moss rock and everything was completely soaked. Eliminates were then tried. I hope it's better in two weeks.

The Weekend!

2009-02-05T16:10:00.006-06:00

Well hello. How ya doin? Good. Me too.

I'm psyched about going to Little Rock City this Saturday. Really psyched. I'm about to burst open with joy. Well, maybe not that psyched, but close. Brooks, Natalie and I are heading up to LRC to try our hand at some of the most classic problems in the southeast.

Ticklist

(I've never been on any of these problems!!)

-Instinct Sit-

-Bedwetters-

-Cleopatra / Cinderella Traverse-

Cleopatra Cinderella Traverse (V9) from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Seriously, how could life be any better? As long as I have projects I will be happy.

Sunday I'm going to Moss Rock Preserve, to try:

Reignition Sit

and

Beef It

Clicky click for videos.

STAY PSYCHED!

Toxic Avenger

2009-02-02T23:43:00.005-06:00

Great googely moogely. It is 11:45 and I'm bored out of my mind. I've been staring at one problem now for over an hour and it's not looking any better. My mind started to wonder and I found myself sneaking a peek at the Bishop bouldering guidebook that came in the mail today. Might as well call it the Bible, it's as big as one. My eyes glance over a problem in the Happy Boulders, two words:

Toxic Avenger

I remember this thing from my trip two years ago. It's short, sweet, and prime for the picking'. No way I would have been able to touch it then, but now I think it will be right up my alley. Thanks to Timmy for the video... whoever you are.

The Fall Boy

2009-01-30T16:05:00.007-06:00

Alex left me a comment that The Fall Boy should be on the top of my list for Bishop. Well I can see why, after some poaching I came up with this image.

Dope.

Oh yeah, and Atari.

I guess it's pretty cool too.

To whoever took these photos, thanks.

Bishop Inspiration 1.0

2009-01-27T14:45:00.005-06:00

Take Hueco Inspiration 1.0 flip it, twist it, and put it in your pocket.

This is a whole new shadinkadink.

Booyakasha.

Stained Glass.

Holy classic boulder batman.

HP40 (1-25-09)

2009-01-27T10:39:00.005-06:00

A great day at HP40.

A couple of things to note.

Kevin continues his sending spree with Litz Pocket, Boomslang, and Permanent Scream.

Brooks crushed Ghetto Superstar (send me the video man!), and nearly sent Cadillac thrills.

SON!

Here's a couple of pictures from 2 years ago. Nasty Nate giving the word under God Module. I wish I had this video. Classic!

Bishop it is...

2009-01-24T18:36:00.006-06:00

A decision has been made.

Bishop, here we come....

Boy o' boy. I can't believe I'm going back for round three! I'm going to hop on my hangboard now and not drop off until we get on the plane. I left last time with projects out the wazoo, and now I get to go back and try and finish them up. Hell yeah. More to come on SB09 later.

Tomorrow a crew is going back to HP40, I'll let you know how it goes.

Check this article out on The Star System. Good stuff.

Oh no Hueco....

2009-01-23T12:11:00.006-06:00

WHOOPSY! Looks like Hueco is out of the question... A little late on the reservations and the crazy rules at "America's Best" bouldering area bit us in the ass. I really want to go, but holy shit man the rules are one too many. Here's the plan now (or lack there of)...

Plan 1: Go to Bishop.

Plan 2: Go to Joe's.

My question to you is, where would you rather go? I've been to both, love both, and can't wait to go back to both. So I need some persuading. HELP! Hit up the poll to your right. =>

Catch you later.

Oh well

2009-01-20T10:10:00.005-06:00

What's up friends?

Some days you send and some days you don't.

I didn't, but got excruciatingly close. Bloody hell. Next time...

On the other hand, Kevin once again upped the ante on Sherman Photo Roof. Nice send brotha.

Here's a link to Scotty Gross' Blog. He's got a rad video up right now of a few classics around the South East. Word.

Let me know how things went for you! Shoot me an e-mail.

Later.

Hueco Insperation 1.0

2009-01-14T12:05:00.003-06:00

Hola amigos. Since the "plains" crew has decided on Hueco for spring break I thought it would be cool if I posted a insperational video once a week until we go. Well here it is. Version 1.0. I saw this video of Jamie Emerson on the TUBE and thought, "Damn. I want to do THAT!" Looks super classic. Here it is:

Loaded With Power.

Just a few things....

2009-01-13T15:03:00.006-06:00

Well howdy do! Thanks for checking in! First I'd like to point your attention to Pimpin and Crimpin and their hilarious new post on ads they wished existed. Funny shit!

Next, I'd like to show you this: Rocktown Weather. In particular, the weather for this weekend. Notice anything? Oh yeah.... it's freaking good, and even better, it's a three day weekend (thanks MLK)!

Finally, I'd like to extend the offer to climb this weekend at rocktown. The weather is good, the rock is good, and if you come the vibes will be good. I'll be there all weekend so come one, come all!

Trip Report (HP40)

2009-01-12T14:01:00.004-06:00

Well yesterday was freaking awesome! A few of my friends and I went to good ole Horse Pens 40. The trip was a giant success. My good friend Kevin sent two of his projects (making for his hardest sends yet), Donnie made good progress on a couple of his projects (he also sent Slush Puppy), Taylor sent a problem (his first time to climb on HP sandstone), and I sent a couple of problems that I would have never dreamed possible a few months ago. Psyched! Anyway, it was a friggen sweet day with lots of energy in the air. Check out the video below of the two classics that Kevbo CRUSHED! Nice work friend.

I'm Sore.... Alex is Cranking!

2009-01-09T11:51:00.004-06:00

So just a couple things to speak of... First off, I'm really f'ing sore. I started P90X two days ago and it is officially kicking my ass. My hope is that it will improve my climbing (Note for mountain folk: When living in the plains, one must go to extremes to improve strength... because there is no climbing around... really, I'm talking zero), and if it doesn't end up helping I will sure as hell be stronger. But enough about me.

My good friend Alex Savage and his girlfriend Sonja took a trip from LA to Bishop for New Years. It looks like they had a hell of a time. Here is a video (thanks Sonja!) of the two crush masters doing what they do best, crushing.

Needles For New Years

2009-01-06T21:59:00.004-06:00

Well the birthday celebrations were really good, ate at a hibachi grill, drank a bunch of sake, and hung out with friends. School starts tomorrow, I'm really not psyched, but it will be alright. Kevin and I almost finished up the woody here in Auburn, so once that's done it will be awesome. More to come on that later.

On Dec 31, '08 Sean destroyed a bad ass new problem on Avery Drive, Oklahoma.

Here is the Video.

More to come.

Desperation

2009-01-06T00:47:00.003-06:00

Yesterday was rediculous.

Today is my birthday.

I'm back in Auburn.

Enjoy...

In B-ham... and the weather still sucks.

2009-01-04T21:04:00.003-06:00

Well I lied, no more rock scaling in Tulsa. It's all good though, the season is only halfway done. I'm chilling in Birmingham with a few of my buddies, drinking, and trying to not think about the weather. It was supposed to be good, but nope! Not this winter break... son of a bitch. Raja and I are going to try and go to some DL boulders tomorrow, but the fog outside and the 60% chance of rain makes me doubtful. Damn man, I wish the stars would align and the climbing gods would let me climb... Sorry. I'll stop bitching now. Some more champagne and I should forget all about it.

I'll let y'all know about tomorrow.

Tropic Thunder is friggen hilarious.

Out.

Old classics, and a new line...

2009-01-01T10:51:00.003-06:00

Well happy New Year everyone! Hope every one's celebrations were good. Yesterday, the last day of 2008, proved to be an awesome day here in Tulsa. With amazing weather, crisp temperatures, and plenty of hard projects 2008 wrapped up the way it should have.... with crushing. Sean Dossett destroyed a long standing project on Avery Drive at the end of the day with very little light left, dubbing it Needles for New Years (V10). Good job man, you are crushing right now! I have video of Sean sending Needles for New Years, and should be posting it within the next week (maybe even today if I work fast).

I was really psyched to do two of Chandler Park's finest, Reef Direct and The North American. The North American was by far the best problem I have done at Chandler, super classic moves to an amazing jug finish.

Tomorrow holds more rock scaling, Oklahoma sandstone is begging to be held. So check back friends, more updates soon to come. Have a good New Years day!

Onward and Upward

2008-12-26T21:23:00.006-06:00

Well I moved on from Destin feeling like a stuffed tick. Had fun with the family, but I'm glad the beach party is over. Tomorrow I set sail for North Carolina. Hopefully the weather is going to be good on Sunday, but it's not looking like it.... Shit! Ass! Oh well, maybe Rumbling Bald next time around. Monday holds a pretty long drive (read: 14 hours = heinous) from NC to OK. My girlfriend and I will have plenty of quality time in the car, and hopefully she wont get sick of me (read: pounding red bull and singing at the top of my lungs). Then comes the good old O-K-L-A-H-O-M-A. Hell yeah son, I am psyched about pulling down at some of the home crags (read: crushing classics) . I'll keep in touch, keep checking back.

Peace. Love. Applesauce.

Evilution

2008-12-22T19:37:00.004-06:00

Well not much to say other than the fact it is cold as hell in Destin... in the 30's to be exact. Holy mother... Anyway, I start fishing through my photos and came up with this badass sequence from Bishop a couple years back. Alex Savage sending Evilution to the lip.

This Joker is Big

Awwww Snap!

SICK!

Pullup at the Top to Make It Legit. Word.

Getting Fat....

2008-12-20T11:05:00.005-06:00

It is amazing how much regular people eat... Visiting with my family this week has opened my eyes to the glutenous ways of the average American. Normally I would wake up, eat a bowl of cereal, and then eat again when I got hungry, but this morning I woke up and ate a bowl of cereal, was offered a piece of cake, and as soon as I finished was asked how many empanadas I wanted for lunch (which will probably occur in 30 min). Son of a bitch. I should just count myself out for sending this break, my fat ass wont be able to do anything but watch. With 60 different kinds of cookies and pies, there is no will power strong enough to keep from snacking all day long. I'm going to try, but most likely it will do no good. You know the first thing my grandma said to me? Not "hello", or "how are you", or "how have you been", but "What do you want to eat???". Nothing Grandma! I want to crush, and this means weighing less than 200 after seven days... My god. In all seriousness, for those of you that have climbed with me before, it was fun, but I'm calling it quits, this week is going to change me... Until next post, climb hard for me, I'll be dreaming of da rocks.

Random ass Pictures!!!

Raja on some SHE-ITE in the Dirty Dirty.

Salty Air, Sandy Feet, Stuffed Belly

2008-12-18T17:37:00.004-06:00

I've arrived in Destin, Florida for a week of relaxing with the family. Yessir, the breeze, the sand, and plenty of food means good times.

I'll leave you guys with a little motivation, I know I need some.....

Unkown Girl On Grape Ape (Rocktown, GA)

Arnold on In Your Face (Rifle, CO)

Sean on The Dali (Mt. Evans, CO)

Oklahoma Special

2008-12-17T11:20:00.002-06:00

I don't understand why life is so cruel. As my dreams switch from the problems here in the Southeast to those located in my home land Oklahoma, I can't help but thinking about some of my favorite places. The problem is, the best problems in Oklahoma are now off limits, thanks to private property and stingy owners. The Farm, as it has been called, consists of beautiful sandstone boulders perched next to a farm overlooking the beautiful rolling hills in Bartlesville, OK. With a few projects there that have to clock in at V10 or harder, this area is truly the future of bouldering around the Tulsa area. Now I'm not saying this place is a destination, but for the rock starved Tulsa area locals, the best sandstone bouldering around is no longer accessible. So damn...... damn, damn, damn! I wish I could go back one more time, and do some classics like the one's shown below.

An Ungraded Unnamed Classic

Zack on "Serious Ju-Ju" (v5)

Moving Towards the Topout of "Resident Hard man" (Undone- v10?)

The Beginning of "Resident Hardman"

Sick! Just sick...

Another Undone Classic

Again, Undone Classic

So sweet dreams kiddos. If ANYONE has info on how to get in good with the owners of the Farm, you let me know.

Final are done son!

2008-12-16T17:54:00.001-06:00

HELL YEAH! Finals are finally over and Christmas break is upon us... I'm pumped about going to NC and OK to do some crushing over the break. I hope every one's life is in good order, and that everything is going hunky dory. My roommate and I have been drinking since noon (our last final was easy-peasy) and I'm pretty drunk as a result. Now is the time to celebrate the season, so drink up! I'll try to post as much as I can during the break. Bah humbug, and good riddens to those able to climb around the Southeast during the break....

Spring Break - '08

2008-12-14T12:37:00.001-06:00

A crew of us from Auburn went to Joes Valley for spring break this year. The vibes were good, the temps were good, and the blocs were amazing.... this was the result.

Give it up to the main man Alex on the badass sends. I hear he's doing pretty well in Cali too (sending v13??? Hot Damn!). In other news, I hear that Brooks Walker is super close on Ghetto Superstar, and Taylor Forsyth is close to Popeye @HP40..... and to that I say sick! Send those mugs!

I'm also pretty psyched about going to Rumbling Bald on the 28th of this month, if anyone wants to meet up let me know... It's going to be a solo trip if not!

So cheers everyone! The holidays are coming.... only two more finals left!

A video for your viewing pleasure...

2008-12-13T13:01:00.003-06:00

A lil' something I made...

AHSL on Crystal Tips.

More to come...

My very first Blog

2008-12-12T12:40:00.000-06:00

Son, my first blog.... Sounds too good to be true. Start out with a few pictures and maybe a video....

I was super close on on golden harvest over thanksgiving... I can't wait to get back on it. Unfortunately, it looks like the weather is turning to shite for Wednesday, which is my last day to try it this year. Here's a little vid of a couple of goes, I know it looks like I'm far away from it, but I've done all the moves(except stick the one hard one), and once I do that it's over. Sooo psyched...

How about some random ass photos?

Adam trying something hard on The Fang, CO.

It's sunrise at the Keyhole, and I haven't slept in 24 hours.... plus I have to shit.

Rental...haha